China
Beijing the old wise soul in a young chick body
Wednesday 19 May 2010 - Tuesday 1 June 2010
28 °C
China, China, China. I like this country.
I arrived Wednesday evening after another 13 hours of traveling, one taxi, one airport bus, one six hours flight, a new airport shuttle, one train (the fastest train in the world, kind of cool) and another taxi ride. The coolest thing happend in the shuttle bus from Tianjin airport in China. I entered, sat down and looked up on the tv in the bus and realized that I recognice the guy on the screen. I looked for one more minute and realized that it was Jakob Eklund and Samuel Froler in a swedish thriller with chinese subtitle. That was the most surrialistic thing ever. I was sitting in a shuttle bus in China, only Chinese people and little me, and they are airing a swedish movie in the bus. Cool. ![]()
My first couple of days here I was overwhelmed, badly overwhelmed. The hostel I had booked was shitty. Noone in Beijung except for the hostels' staff speak english. The taxi drivers can't even say the most basic things, they don't understand addresses written in english, nothing. In the restaurants, if you are lucky they have a menu with pictures of the food, othervise? Yeah close your eyes and point, and pray for that they don't serve you dog or pig penis (spoke to a Swedish guy who had eaten that, how it tasted? Salty).
Thursday I spent trying to find me a better hostel. I had picked two that I wanted to go and have a look at. To the first one I decided to walk, and the girl in the reception there helped me to write the second hostel's addresses in chinese for the taxi driver which meant that I thought I was safe. Ha, ha, not. I think the address in english said "bla bla street close to bla bla street". The only problem was that my taxi driver only seemed to get the second street, that street my street was close to. He got me there and was happy, I wasn't. Tried to explain to him by pointing that I wanted to go to the address that started the message. We went of again. He had no clue were it was. He drove around for a while, tried to ask people, still couldn't found it. I got tired of it and decided to jump in to the real estate office next to us. None of them spoke more than some basic english phrases but they really tried to help me. One of the women even jumped in to the taxi with me and tried to help the taxi driver to find it. That's so cool about China they don't speak so much english but so many of them really tries to help, that's really nice. Even with this woman's help the taxi driver wasn't able to find it. He found the street, I think, he points on a sign and said it's here (I think atleast that that is what he said). I tried to explain that I wanted to go to number one on the street. He drive of again and goes to another street, stops and point on the building number one and sais: "Nomber one, no hostel" Yeah... kind of logical since we aren't at the right street. I decide to just give up, just get out of the taxi and try to somehow find it myself. Once again the sweet woman helps me. I point on the street name on my note and she is able to walk me to the right street, and there in the distance I can see a international hostel sign. I'm so happy in that moment.
After have had a look at the second hostel I decide to chose the first one, a bit ironic maybe since I put so much effort in finding the second one, but still it was a great adventure ![]()
The problem for me the first days here was that everything seemed to be a great adventure if you have a good day, in a worse mode everything appared to be a really big annoying procedure, and after I had managed to change hostel my energy was out. After my hechtical short stop in Malaysia were I was running around on adrenalin I started to realise that I was alone again after over three weeks of 24 7 with someone. So to sum it up: I was lonely, lost and deeply tired and didn't know how to found the energy to make sense of this country. Even finding food is a big procedure since many of the restaurants don't have a menu in english.
So the rest of that Thursday and the start of the day after I was mostly doing nothing, and it was one cool thing about that cause for the first time in my travel (excluded Thailand of course, but that was another thing) I had a really long time in one spot. I actually didn't have to go out start sighseeing the same day I arrived, since I would spend 12 whole days here.
I was lucky thou to start talk to Nathalie from the US and we realised that we both wanted to go to the beach which lays a couple of hours from Beijing by train. She had already been here for a week for a congress so she knew more about how the city worked, and she dragged me out for some sighseeing. It was so nice to have someone with me those first days. Someone who could try to help you make sense of how this society works, how you did the basic things. Back at the hostel we meet up with the German guy she had meet the night before and he took us out to a restaurant, and here we talking high fashion restaurant. That's the cool thing with traveling alone. You can end up eating luxury dinner with people you talked to for the first time sex hours earlier. The food was amazing, there prime dish was the Beijing roasted duck, and believe me it was a good one. also all the small dishes we had before and after was wonderful. And the experience didn't got worse by the German guy insisting to pay for it all ![]()
The day after, Saturday we left for Bediade, the beach town, me, Nathalie and the German guy from the night before who had ditched his plans to go to Mongolia (or rather postponed them) for joyning us (or more accurate, to join Nathalie...
). I had looking forward to laying on the beach and actually get a real tan (that's the problem with going to Thailand this time of the year, it's actually to hot to lay on the beach during the day, and yeah I was a bit to lazy for it to
). The problem was that when we arrived in Beidaihe it was cold. It was like 18 degres and windy. For me it was a shock. I had spent my last 2,5 months in 35+. The only dress code that I had followed had been to put on as little and thin clothes as possible. The decisions have been about if it's possible to take that dress out for dinner since you have to were a belt to it and I will probably sweat to much under the belt. 3 am in the morning you still not were a sweater, you just stop sweating. That was how I had lived, to freeze on a beach, it was outside my mental map by now. And there I arrive, wearing my thin clothes as always, and I was freezing, so badly. During the first hour it worked pretty fine casue the sun was still out and it wasn't that windy. Then it got cloudy and the wind increased. We gave up the laying on the beach and went for some sighseeing trying to find an ATM and I was freezing my but off and I was seriously thinking that I never would be able to become warm again, especially since even inside the houses it's pretty cold. Back at the hostel I put the heater on max, took a hot shower (tried at least, the water wasn't that warm) and was laying under three blankets for three hours, still freezing. Finally I managed to unfreeze myself and before the evenings dinner I put on layer after layer and used my sari, which had worked as a beach towel so far, as a scarf, anything to stay warm.
The only cool thing with Beidaihe was that here you didn't just see Chinese signs that you can't read, they also had the Russian (cyrillic?) alphabet. So we entered the restaurants and were handed one menu in Chinese signs and one in Russian signs, just so weirdly wonderful. But for the rest Beidaihe was a small, depressing place. Besides the cold weather there idea of a cousy restaurant was a big room with a fluroscent lamp in the cealing (which seems to be a common missunderstanding here in China). The clothes shops were more or less non existing. The hotel had probably been nice, for like 25 years and some water losses ago. Now it was just runned down, with floor and walls damaged by damp and smelly bathrooms. So all I wanted after that first day was to get out of there and go back to Beijing again.
Lucky for me Nathalie didn't want to leave (the german left for Mongolia) which gave us an awesome day on, wait for it, the Great wall of China (Kinesiska muren). We took a taxi to a part of the wall and then we were actually walking, or rather climbing, on the wall. It was so amazingly cool. Here we were a random Sunday on the great wall, I mean can you have a better Sunday than that? I seriously think the Great wall is the coolest historic place in the world. The spot we were at was really leaning upwards (since it was the first peak on the east part of the wall, or something like that) so it was a really hard work out to get up there, but it was so worth it ![]()
Afterwards we found the night foodmarket in the small village we were in and we ordered food by pointing on the sticks, hoping that it was kind of chicken... We had excpect her to bbq them for us, instead we ended up with deep fried sticks, included deepfried vegtables. A bit intersting but can actually tell you that deep fried cauliflower (blomkal) is really good. And to top it of we paid 2,5 euro each for 10 sticks and drinks. ![]()
Monday morning we left Beidaihe for going back to Beijing. Nathalie had two friends who flow in from the US and we wanted to be at there hostel before they arrived, which shoudln't be a problem, ha ha that was what we had thought. The train to Beidaihe had taken three hours, the train back took five hours, and we had to go to our hostel, repack everything (since we had left most of our stuff there) go back in to the taxi and drive to the hostel her friends had booked. So they had been sitting there waiting for us for half an hour, but they seemed to have survived that to ![]()
Since they only planned to stay in Beijing for three days, we decided to go the day after to the Forbidden city, a small city within Beijing were the different emperors of China had been living for hundreds of years and all the normal citizens was denied access. The Forbidden city was cool, it had heaps of amazing buildings and was really beautiful. One more cool thing was the audiable guides who both had the guide recorded in swedish and were runned via gps, so the guide felt were you were and when you were at the right spot the recorded guide started to speak in your headset. Pretty impressive.
Wednesday, the day after the Forbidden city, we went for the big Great wall tour, a four hours hike on the wall. Believe me it was amazing. Totally amazing. The hike was pretty hard sometimes, but after our hike on the other part of the great wall during the Sunday, it wasn't too bad, at least not for the first three hours. The last 20 minutes our legs was literally shaking, since you were walking so much up and down with really big steps and high slope. But it was so worth it. The view was amazing and I mean to walk on the Great Wall of China for four hours, how can that not be amazing? Think I took more picture during those hours than what I did during my whole period in Thailand... That day was just so, so wonderful.
In the evening we decided to go out, as the other evenings earlier, the only difference was that I thought that we should try the ridiculous cheap Chinese alcohol. We paid less than one euro for 500 ml 43% alcohol. I have no idea what it actually was we were drinking, I just know that it tasted aceton and we managed to finish the whole bottle in shots during the 30 minutes taxi ride to the club of the evening, also know that it worked cause we all got drunk, that's for sure... ![]()
The three american girls left the day after, this Thursday, and it was just me again. But this time it was actually nice. Not because of the american girls, they had been awesome to hang around with, but because it was just nice being just me. That evening I spent on the hostels courtyard, under my blancet reading my book next to a candle. And I had an awesome evening, just have time to think, time to just be. My last four days have followed the same pattern.
Knowing that I was going home in four days made one part of me really impatient. I had already been in Beijing for over a week, I wasn't that interested in trying to meet some new people and just wanted to go home. I was ready and I wanted to leave, now. But I still had four days to fill. The other side of the coin was that I realised that it was just four days left and I wanted to enjoy the luxury to spend those days with just me. I could have been going sighseeing, eating dinner and drinking with people from the hostel, but I didn't wanted to. I just wanted to walk around just me. Wanted to sit and read my book during the evening (update my travel blog...), just be, do what I wanted and I think in some way wanted to land after all my travel. To make a closure with myself in someway. I don't know, just know that is has been four really relaxing days and that I haven't felt lonely for one second.
But as I said I still had four days to fill before departing for Gothenburg, Sweden. Friday I went out for some shopping, first to some of the so cute old districts in Beijing and then to one of these crazy indoors markets were you have to bargain (pruta) as a maniac. Saturday I went to one of the famuos parks, to another indoor market and then back to the first one, were I bargain as a goodess for some bags. That's a benefit from traveling in Asia for so long, you became good at bargain (or end up broke). The day after when I went to a food market i managed to cut 50% of the price for a fruit stick and was able to go back and get a new one when the promised strawberries turned out to be tomatoes. So bargain, I like it and I'm good at it by now.
Sunday morning I was really pissed of, for reason that isn't important anymore, but the good thing with that was that I had to get it out of my system so I went out walking for four hours as a lunitic through Beijing, and ended up to have an awesome day. I started of on all this small streets were you can still find the old China. Small narrow streets, were old men are sitting playing board games, were the workers use bicycle to transport things. It's wonderful, cute and beatiful with all the green trees. Then afte a bit more walking I ended up on what look likes Sydney, New York or wathever big city you want. That's the cool thing with this city, it has a so awesome mixture of old and new.
I had had this plan to go and see the Summer palace (some more old cool buildings) but that days sighseeing by feet in Beijing made me realized that no matter how cool the old buildings are, that wasn't what I wanted to see. I wanted to see Beijing, the today Beijing which it's crazy mixture of old and new. So my last day, i.e. today (I'm going home tomorrow, so, so cool
), I spend in the same way. Just walking around, wisiting a park, then just walking and looking. Awesome.
So how would I describe Beijing? I think my best way to describe this city is to compare here to an old wise soul with dignity that is captured in a new chick and welldressed young woman. The kind of girl you like to hang around, just because that she is so cool, without having to rub it in your face. She knows already that she is awesome, with this amazingly long history, so she don't have to show of, she can just be and even if you aren't as cool as her she still wants to hang around with you, she is still curious and wants to know you. That is Beijing for me, and also the rest of China, judged on the small part I have seen. I like this country, cause they are clever enough to realize that they have an amazingly long and impressive history, and they have the sense to be proud over it, as the same time as they want to be an important part of the 21th century. They seem to manage to take the old history with them in creating the new, and that is impressive to see. When you are walking around in Beijing, especially on a weekend, what you see is tons and tons of Chinese tourists. They now have the money to travel around, and they chose to see there own country, and I can understand them. The people here doesn't speak englsih, most of them not at all, but almost all people I have meet they want to help. They are curious on us westerns, and I get the feeling that they like that we are here. The women in Beijing make you feel like you are in a shooting of Sex and the City, they all dress fabulously. Beijing also have trees, it is actuallt green whch is sush a realife after way to many ugly looking Asian big cities. Also the climate has been awesome during my staying, except for the two days around Bediadhe, the temperature in Beijing has been around 28 degres and sunny but not humid. So I have been able to actually sightseeing in the middle of the day, without almost not sweating and all, and at the same tome been so nicly warm, awesome.
So to sum it up, after a shaky start I really like the parts of China I have seen and I really like Beijing. Would they just start to embrace the concepts of cousy restaurants and cafes (those once that you want to spend a rainy Sunday in) with englsih menues, start to produce clothes larger than small (or if I would drope 15 kilos or so, and operate my feet to be smaller) and expand there subway system so it would be easier to move around and maybe be able to speak a better english, than I could live in this city for a year or two
Me love Beijing.
Now, guess what? I am of to packing. Packing for which time? The last one. Cause do you know what? I'm going home, TOMORROW. Wihii, will be so cool and so nice ![]()
Posted by Linneak Monday 31 May 2010 21:26 Archived in China Comments (1)